Conrad Anker

World class climber and Timex Expedition brand ambassador

Biography

Conrad Anker, an American rock climber, mountaineer, author and environmental activist, has made a specialty of climbing the most technically challenging terrain he can find. This search has taken him from the mountains of Alaska and Antarctica to the big walls of Patagonia and Baffin, to the massive peaks of the Himalaya.

In addition to his accomplishments on the mountain, Anker contributes to the outdoor community as an ambassador for the Timex® Expedition® brand where he is involved in product development of watches and instruments that are designed to inspire and enhance outdoor excursions. In this role, Anker provides key insight from his experiences, tests products during climbing expeditions, and provides reflections and advice on the Return to the Outdoors website (www.ReturnToTheOutdoors.com) which has inspired thousands to reconnect with nature and support the work of the Conservation Alliance.

Conrad's Antarctic experience spans a decade, with first ascents in three regions. In 1997, Conrad teamed up with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer to climb Rakekniven, a 2,500 foot wall in Queen Maud Land. This incredibly remote climb was covered by the National Geographic Society for both a magazine article and a documentary film.

In the Sentinel Range, Conrad has climbed the Vinson Massif via three new routes and currently holds the speed record for the regular route (9 hours 11 minutes). Conrad is well respected in the big wall mecca of Yosemite Valley for his numerous speed ascents on El Capitan. He has established a difficult new line called "Continental Drift" (VI 5.10 A4) - that has yet to see a second ascent. In Zion National Park, he made the first ascent of the intimidating Streaked Wall with Mugs Stump, as well as climbing four grade V walls in a day.

In Patagonia, Conrad has climbed all three towers of the Cerro Torre group, including new routes on Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt. In Pakistan's Karakorum, Conrad climbed the west face of Latok II via the route "Tsering Mosong", which means long life in Balti. The route begins at the same height as the summit of Denali, climbs 26 pitches on a vertical cliff and then tops out at 23,342 feet. In 1998,Conrad and Peter Croft climbed Spansar Peak, a first ascent via a 7000 foot long ridge. The pair did the climb in a day with a minimal amount of equipment.

In May of 1999, as a member of the Mallory & Irvine Research expedition, Conrad discovered the body of George Mallory, the preeminent Everest explorer of the 1920s. The disappearance of Mallory and Irvine on their summit bid of June of 1924 is one of climbing's great mysteries. Conrad's discovery and analysis of the find has shed new light onto the pioneering climbs of the early expeditions. Conrad again reached the summit of Everest on June 14, 2007.

Active in numerous charitable causes, Anker serves on the board of the Conservation Alliance, the American Alpine Club, the Rowell Fund for Tibet and the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation. “My involvement with these organizations is intrinsically rewarding,” Anker says “and it’s among the most important work I do. It feels good to be able to give back to our community of humans and the natural world." Conrad graduated from the University of Utah and lives in Bozeman, Montana with his wife Jennifer and three sons, Max, Sam, and Isaac.